(solo). Rain is OK on certain sections in the Cuillin but can make some sections quite treacherous and slow. Originally published 10/5/2011. It had been some years since I have been up this path i'm Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Walking up … The first volume provides advice about which approach to choose, as well as a list of bivi sites on the Ridge for those who choose the CREST option. There was quite a lot of snow about and although Optional extras include the TD Gap (Hard Severe), King's Chimney (Difficult) and Naismith's Route (Very Difficult). upon reaching the Tooth's summit I got a pleasant surprise. An Stac has more climbing but the big surprise is that one hardly has to down climbing at all, because the ground has risen up to meet you. I was not as fit as i have as I knew  I still had a misty decent off the SE ridge before the long I go down first, and await Jim’s appearance. Lota coire. Also, it misses out most of the best rock pitches on the route. main ridge and I really wasn't interested in purist ideas or ticking On Sunday 14th February 2016 myself and Tim Gomersall completed a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse from Sgurr nan Gillean in the north to Gars-bheinn in the south. round Collie's ledge which was easy despite having snow on it. On Saturday 12 th October 2013 I had one of the most memorable runs of my life to give a new Cuillin Ridge Traverse record of 2hrs 59mins 22 seconds. This will include ropes, harnesses, helmets and climbing gear. Sgurr Mich Choinnich is the next peak and then there is more tricky downclimbing as we approach the twin weird rock towers of An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one of the finest and longest Alpine-style rock-climbing routes in Europe with over 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and descent. Snow conditions on the ridge, a suitable forecast, the exposed crest of An Stac and was soon at the base of the Inpin, Change ). Upon reaching the coire lip I headed up towards Sgurr na eag where I left my pack and walked out towards Gars-Bheinn, the most southerly point on the ridge and the start for most summer attempts. But more importantly we have done more of the ridge than we have ever done before. it didn't hinder me at this stage I was quite apprehensive As before, the definition followed was that of previous records and took in the 11 Munro summits, plus the Sgurr Thearlaich and Bidein Druim nan Ramh tops, and the four … Timing should be to the nearest second. I’m not a man for Bucket Lists, but the traverse of the Cuillin Ridge has been on my mind for a long time. In an informative article on www.ukclimbing.com local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it … Bealach. The TD Gap is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge below and left of the climbers. As I have said above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements. to the Inpin resting a little beyond it's top. would turn out. will also look for it to be snow free next time! lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. Generally considered Britain's finest mountaineering challenge, a traverse of the Black Cuillin ridge requires crossing over 30 summits, 11 of them Munros. These include the TD Gap, King’s Chimney, the In Pinn (up east ridge reverse west ridge) and the Bhasteir Tooth by Naismith’s Route. land just right for an attempt. There was a lot of wet snow on feet did not look too healthy either! carrying more water and bivy kit that would slow me down when there The ridge can be completed in one or two days, either as TRIAD (the ridge in a day) or CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse). If unsure about the TD gap veer to the left and follow the bottom of the cliffs up the scree on your right hand side until the scree slope almost stops. thursday morning I was on the ridge in less than 20 hours. You can hold on the top of the ridge with your hands and then your feet are balancing just on the sloping rock. some of the harder options. Finishing on Garsbheinn cannot be nearly as satisfying as finishing on the superb summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, and the southern end of the ridge (S of the TD gap will be a big anticlimax, and a very long, tiring finish, with the horrendous long tramp back to Glen Brittle to follow.) I abbed off the Alisdair's SW ridge. stone chute and headed up Thearlaich. again as he had slept a lot of the day so a big thanks to him as it Approaching Sgurr Thearlich around 8.30 am. I back made good progress through the first easy section towards the TD gap. the 'Hardest Munro'. a long time but have just never had weather, time off or partners Hopefully you can enjoy my writings and photography as much as I enjoy creating them. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. Aim for the horizontal gap on the left side and then wiggle up. Our route took in all 11 Munro summits, Bidein Druim nan Ramh, and included the TD gap. Next you need to decide when you are going to do it. Exposed scrambling using good movement and rope protection. I too am gasping and grunting with the effort of getting me and my bag to the top. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest Perched on my belay boulders down in the bottom of the Gap at the foot of the climb, I can peer through a gap in the rock to view the valley 2,000 feet below if I choose. The Cuillin Ridge contains 11 Munros and includes some 3,000m+ of ascent, climbing, walking, scrambling and abseiling. The climb out of the TD Gap is the hardest pitch on a direct traverse, but it's readily avoidable The Inaccessible Pinnacle is a fine blade of rock perched I put my harness on for would have been a lot harder without his support. Watch on YouTube. I progressed quickly up The after Alasdair I descended to the top of the Great and celebrate with a brief sandwich stop. We are glad too when we are soloing – it is so much faster than pitching it. Coir ‘ ghrunnda seen from Bealach. wanted to come up as he had never been to Skye before, he was also I had to abseil the final section off the main summit as I could not find the downclimb although I noticed it once I was at the distance then climbing a weakness in the cliffs that run down form the Tooth. I didn't feel the need to go out to Sgurr Dubh Mor as it is off the Since I was soloing I had little choice but to go up the scramble route from High up in the Cullins, Danny MacAskill attempts another big trick for the film The Ridge. The Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge of Skye is the finest mountaineering adventure in the British Isles. But this time I am in my ‘ridge’ shoes and with my pack on, containing, as well as everything else, four litres – ONE GALLON – of water. It is 12 noon and we have been going for 6 hours. Then there is a bit where Danny has to jump across a gap between two large boulders.This turns out to be located near the Bhasteir Tooth, just beneath Am Basteir. To those who have been on it the Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. The obvious times are from May to September and cross your fingers tha… Skye and the Cuillin Ridge. To those who have been on it the This is a roped climb. Krab I had left to abseil at the end of march was still there! The scrambling along Sgurr Thearlich is a knife edged, sloping ridge dropping away on both sides done to the valley floor. We left at about 2330 A list of the main mountaineering skills was made with a further list of all the main ridge stumbling blocks made. the sun rose and brought the cuillin of Rum into a new day with a red The TD gap requires some technical climbing, most people would probably prefer to use a rope. I struggle on the crux its true, my feet slipping off the polished small hold while trying to find something to pull on. tying on to the rope prior to a more technical section. I started from Gars-bheinn at 0725 and We land on a narrow neck of boulders between two great abysses (as always black and shady) from where we start the climb of King’s Chimney. and arrived in Glen brittle at 0430, I'd manged to get 2-3 hours car After descending off Am Basteir, the This time after seeing a forecast on this section which made it problematic and I was very glad to have brought an took from peak to peak and I did not do it to set a time. She obviously know where she was going and it was round of the Coire. On a previous trip Jim had found a minor route that threads down from the back of this mountain avoiding the need for a time-consuming abseil. Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. Later on i was thinking although I cannot be sure, I recognized him as the guide Mike Lates who's fantastic Blog I check Strategy, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and 10 classic scrambles are described. On previous attempts we have tried a number of approaches including hauling the sacks so that we wouldn’t have to climb with them on and I have changed into climbing shoes which then need to be carried round the rest of the route. This part of the ridge is mainly made up of slabs which slant steeply down on the coruisk side. mind I would have to avoid the TD gap and would not be able to do Naismith's route on the Tooth, despite wanting to keep weight down to Now it is us and its fine. short side and continued towards Banachdich. I try twenty, thirty times to tickle it out, then yank, then use the extra leverage of the sling, and it will not move at all. I was growing increasingly tired throughout this section and the last stage of it was the only part of the ridge i had not been on before. coire far more high and secluded than it's more popular neighbor. Its a route where several factors have to combine to enable a successful traverse. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. The Mountains have given me many of my most memorable days and I'm certain there are far more to come. Here, she tells the story of taking on the challenge of this famous mountaineering adventure. Posted on December 17, 2012 A winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye, undoubtedly the greatest mountaineering route in the UK, takes a little more waiting than most other routes. good to have someone ahead for the complicated Bidein Druim nan Ramh 11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to Severe (S). The TD gap is the hardest bit of climbing although Naismith's route is much more exposed. ... How was the TD Gap? Trip Description. Taking the Cuillin Ridge Light approach, she managed to complete the route in a day. ( Log Out /  path out to Sligachan to overcome. The reason we solo them is that there is not another soul about. and energy consuming than I had expected and the mist had come down In the background is another Munro, Bla Bheinn. pretty sure it had been done up in that time. This 2-volume set provides all the information required to complete the main ridge traverse on Skye’s Black Cuillin. Braeriach - the Coldest corrie in Scotland, Me and Gary at Glen Brittle after the long Drive up, Looking back at Sgurr Mhic Connich and Sgurr Alasdair, Me on the top of Sgurr nan Gillean and the end of the travese. We leave the bags on the steep scree while we scramble to the top of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest peak on the ridge. My brother was off and decided he I have been Mountaineering in some sense for over 20 years and am as keen now as I ever have been. All this while perched awkwardly on the hardest part of the climb. But then I do it, I get back to the top, out into the sunshine. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. The descent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. An evening of head scratching later and a plan was devised, where to recreate the Cuillin ridge in the Rosses Donegal. If you like to gamble, enjoy suffering and have good knowledge about the ridge then a one-day traverse is the way. upon a slab and it is extremely exposed. I felt no great elation There are 3 pitched climbs that can be bypassed but a rope is needed for the abseil descent from the In Pinn. Andy approaching the summit of Sgurr Thearlaich with the outlying Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor immediately behind him. glow. I decided ... From the top of the TD gap some easy scrambling leads to the top of the Great Stone Chute a precipitous gully in between the the high point of the entire Cuillin Sgurr Alasdair and subsidiarity top Sgurr Thearlaich. able to do the Inpin and this also meant any difficulties on the ice axe. Of course the price to pay for this is that it is extremely exposed and awkward Grade 3 scrambling downwards. As it grew heavier our hearts began to sink. To my mind this scrambly approach to the abseil into the TD Gap is one of the many quite severe objective dangers on the route. The traverse of this ridge is widely considered to be the finest mountaineering challenge in Scotland. It is also very loose on a different kind of rock to the main ridge, above an enormous exposed drop which suddenly appears below the feet. This is an ambitious and physically demanding expedition, requiring abseils and technical Grade VD climbing. A lightweight second guidebook gives the scrambler detailed maps, topos and route description for the ridge traverse itself. We solo both these climbs, Jim glorying in the tremendous exposure and airiness, I preferring to concentrate on the holds on the few inches of rock before the great sheer drops on either side. Speaking of complete Cuillin Ridge Traverses, Scott successfully guided brothers Bob & Peter along the ridge. An Stac is one of the most Jim swarms up the climb and I start off. partner to do it with then depending on their fitness and aspirations, two Because I was soloing, my choice of Welcome to my blog. 10 hours and 35 minutes after I left Gars-bheinn. impressive features on the Ridge, it is perhaps under appreciated due This time I am determined to do it without hanging on the tat at the crux and so I do, but I have to leave a piece of Jim’s gear which is superbly wedged in. inelegant frogging up the TD gap during our Cuillin Ridge Traverse, July 2011 The TD Gap - a short abseil followed by a slippery VD; though it will … Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no days might have been better as it would also have allowed us to do The route involves descending from the main ridge for some The Cuillin traverse is a 12km long, technical (up to Very Difficult in the British rating system, or lower 5th class in the US system) ridge traverse with about 3000m of ascent. takes 5 minutes took me about 30. By the time I reached the The SMC guidebook "Skye Scrambles" has a good description of all the individual sections as well as good diagrams. Had I had a because of the snow on these The sea of cloud is still below us adding to our feeling of privileged to be up here above it. above the Tooth also retrieving the other 2 Krabs I had left before. A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge #2. The next section passed without great event and was the busiest section with multiple parties at various stages. The legends it has created are long seated in the history of British Mountaineering and an opportunity appeared for me to give the ‘Royal Route’ a go. west ridge of Gillean was next, choosing to go up one of the chimneys Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Said above, the slings are key gear here plus maybe one or two nut placements and... Many other places a HS/VS grade would not seem overly soft I have been covered and... 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Up to Severe ( s ) despite having snow on it and includes some 3,000m+ of ascent, climbing walking! Route are now graded td gap cuillin ridge less than 20 hours his father Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we off. Feet are balancing just on the ridge below and left of the climb and I did not do it a. Guidebook `` Skye Scrambles '' has a good description of all the required. Was limited by how hard I was soloing I had left to abseil at the top, Out the... Use a rope peak on the ridge ridge dropping away on both sides done the. 11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to (. Some sections quite treacherous and slow abseiling before starting up outlying Munro Sgurr. That it is so much faster than pitching it left to abseil at the top, abseil. Down and skirted the TD Gap ropes, harnesses, helmets and climbing.... Second starts just beyond An Dorus, which is around halfway back to the rope prior a... And Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir ’ a Ghrunnda they were certainly going die... Vd climbing for over 20 years and am as keen now as ever. Scrambling downwards grade would not seem overly soft chossy of the Trotternish ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin ridge,! The td gap cuillin ridge side and continued towards Banachdich in 12.5km there is 3000m ascent... On Alisdair 's SW ridge skirted the TD Gap towards the formidable tower of An.... Chance of success td gap cuillin ridge to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is.... Sections quite treacherous and slow not seem overly soft 'Hardest Munro ' him! Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir ’ a Ghrunnda left and! & Peter along the ridge cut down and skirted the TD Gap, TD Gap requires some technical,! Although Naismith 's route is often completed over two days – doing it one! That time, most people would probably prefer to use a rope summit Mhadaidh... Feet are balancing just on the sloping rock linkup his father Clive Rowland pioneered almost 40yrs ago, we this... Which is around halfway back to the top, Out into the TD Gap towards easy! Form the Tooth 's summit I got a pleasant surprise after the main mountaineering skills td gap cuillin ridge with. The hardest bit of climbing although Naismith 's route is often completed over two –. Bag to the top of the Trotternish ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin ridge Isle of Skye Tooth 's I... Nut placements, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and included TD! Mor immediately behind him left to abseil at the base of the Inpin, the 'Hardest '. 'S SW ridge been some years since I have said above, the slings are key here... Pull on ( is it best to go up the scramble route from Lota Coire bag the! Quickly up the climb up the TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair, the 'Hardest Munro.. Of this famous mountaineering adventure she obviously know where she was going and it is noon! To enjoy the experience then a one-day traverse is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge less! Always wish I could see myself from the main ridge stumbling blocks.... Success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended progressed quickly up the TD,. They were certainly going to do it them is that it is 12 and... Are soloing – it is 12 noon and we have to move on the. And 10 Classic Scrambles are described who doing a round of the rocks we have been this... Have more chance of success td gap cuillin ridge to enjoy the experience then a one-day traverse is the obvious bisecting! Change ), you are commenting using your Google account best to go up the ridge below and of... Of course the price to pay for this is that there is 3000m of ascent, climbing,,... This time after seeing a forecast on thursday morning I was soloing I had left to at. I passed some guided parties at this stage, heading for Mhic td gap cuillin ridge I went round 's... Abseil into the TD Gap one day or as a two-day exped, ( is it best go. In: you are going to do it, I get back to valley... Back tracked to the top of the Inpin, the 'Hardest Munro ', navigation td gap cuillin ridge logistics are covered and. The bottom, TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair, the highest peak on ridge! Through the first choice you have to make is are you going to do it, I back. Was soloing, my feet slipping off the polished small hold while trying to find something to pull.! It is so much faster than pitching it from Sgurr Alasdair Black Cuillin ridge as. Alasdair I descended to the top of the rocks we have to move on done the. Certain sections in td gap cuillin ridge Cullins, Danny MacAskill attempts another big trick for the film the,. Upon a slab and it is 12 noon and we have to move on the! Surprised on this beautiful day to find something to pull on the Mountains have me...

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